
.....rigging the boat
FIG. 9-1 - Putting the
mast in position is called "stepping the mast". With the pivoting
mast step shown in this boat, the mast is placed in the step with
one person pulling forward with the forestay or jib halyard, and a
second person pushing forward and steadying the
mast. |
STEPPING THE MAST
Stepping the mast means putting the
mast on the boat so it can receive the sails. Fig. 9-1 shows a mast being
stepped on a small catamaran. Since the first time you will step the mast
will probably be on land, the first thing to do is make sure there are no
overhead obstructions in the way, ESPECIALLY ELECTRICAL WIRES! Also, the
mast stepping arrangement must be in place. On boats with wood spars,
there must be a way for any water that may settle in the mast step (either
from rain coming down the inside of the spar or from water on deck) to
drain out, or rot will be promoted. With aluminum spars, the same applies,
but not for the same reason. While stainless steel and aluminum are fairly
compatible, there is still some corrosive action between the two in
saltwater conditions, and because the fastenings at the mast base area
will probably be stainless steel, corrosion could occur if salt water were
allowed to remain between the two metals.
If the mast is of the aluminum
pivoting type, a stiffener is often used in the base to provide extra
bearing for the pivot bolt. With pivoting masts, it may be necessary to
radius the bottom corners of the spar to allow it to pivot into position.
When wood masts are used in conjunction with a pivoting mast step, the
mast should not bear directly on the deck or cabin top, but should be
supported by the large bolt in the mast step fitting, thereby preventing
rot by water staying in the step. To raise a mast with a pivoting mast
step, insert the bolt through the mast in the step, connect the shrouds to
the chainplates initially if possible, have one person aft and under the
mast pushing up forward, and have another person pulling directly ahead
with the forestay or jib halyard.
Most masts are stepped with some
degree of "rake", or angle from vertical when viewed in profile. This rake
may be built into the boat, but usually the builder must align the mast to
the proper rake. With masts that step onto the keel or through the deck,
wedges of wood can be used at the hole through the deck to maintain the
angle along with the tension of the stays. On masts stepped on deck or on
the cabin top, the rake of the mast must be maintained by stay adjustment.
Mast rake is usually noted in inches per length of mast, and should be
maintained per the designer's specifications for proper performance, at
least initially. One method of determining the rake is to affix a line to
the top of the mast with a plumb bob attached to the lower end. The boat
must be leveled first. The line should be the length of the mast from the
masthead to the base point from which the rake is measured. The rake is
then measured from one side of the mast to the plumb bob line. When the
correct distance is obtained, the stays can be set up. To keep the plumb
bob steady, it can be dropped in a container of water. Another method for
determining mast rake is to make up a shim or template equal to the amount
of rake. Then use a builder's level held vertically and tilt the mast so
that one side aligns with the shim held between the level and the mast.
Again, the boat must first be leveled.
 FIG. 9-2-How NOT to
adjust tension on stays. Tension should be set up so that the spar
is free of curves or bends when sighting up along the
length. |
SETTING UP THE STANDING RIGGING
When the rake has been determined,
the standing rigging can be set up. If your boat has diamond stays or
jumper stays, these should be installed and set up taut before the mast is
stepped. It is difficult if not impossible to state what the tension on
stays should be. The best guide is common sense, at least in the
beginning. Don't set the stays up so taut that the mast resembles any of
the examples shown in Fig. 9-2. Stays should not be set so tight that they
"sing" when plucked by hand, or cause the mast to bend. Diamond and jumper
stays should be set up very tight, while the lower shrouds are usually set
up "hand tight" only. Use the forestay to maintain the mast rake, and the
backstay or shrouds (if no backstay is used) to put tension on the
forestay. The forestay should also be very tight, especially if a jib is
used. Where upper and lower shrouds are used, the upper shrouds usually
are set up slightly tighter than the lower shrouds. On simple three stay
rigs using stay adjusters on the shroud, use the forestay turnbuckle to
put tension on the rig. When setting up your rigging, make sure the boat
is level and that there is little wind so the mast will not exert tension
of its own. Also, shroud tension should be equal on each side, even though
the shrouds to windward when sailing on a tack will be taut, while those
to leeward will be slack.
Once the tension is set, the
turnbuckles should be locked in position. If stay adjusters are used on
the shrouds, these can be set and kept in this position at all times. The
turnbuckle on the forestay is then used to put tension in both the
forestay and shrouds.
SETTING UP THE RUNNING RIGGING
Having mocked up the deck fittings
and hardware once and fastened them in position, there is little more
required to set up the running rigging. The lines used for the various
sheets should be cut to the correct lengths and the ends "whipped." The
lengths of the sheets should be determined when the boom or the jib is at
the maximum point of travel. For the boom, it should be swung outboard so
it is almost at 90 degrees to the hull centerline. The jib sheets should
be long enough so it can be "tacked" or pulled across the boat from side
to side without the slack side of the jib sheet being pulled free from the
jib sheet creating device or fitting. WHIPPING the ends of lines means
fixing them so they will not fray or unwind along the braids. The
traditional method of whipping is shown in numerous books on "marlinspike
seamanship," but on small boats using synthetic lines, an easier way is to
use a liquid compound made especially to "seal" the end of the line.
Another "makeshift" way to do the job quickly is to merely light a match
and let the flame "melt" the strands together if the material is
synthetic. As noted previously, it is a good idea to make a good-sized
knot in the running end of sheets to prevent them from running out the
blocks if they should get away from the crew. In reeving the lines through
the various blocks, start with the "dead" end of the line first and reeve
to the working or running end. The dead end of a line is best fitted with
a spliced eye or tied in a good knot at the fitting being attached. Wire
rope halyards should be fitted with an eye to a rope at the running end,
or spliced directly to the rope line. Use shackles or Brummel hooks to
attach the halyards to the sails. Check all running rigging to see that
all lines operate smoothly, that the sails will raise and lower without
incident, and that there is a place for all lines to lead without
confusion. If the sail tends to bind in the mast groove, a little paraffin
will usually smooth things out. Check at all possible points for chafe of
both the sails and all lines, and if there are any points which could
cause undue wear, they should be rectified. Particular points to check are
spreader tips, turnbuckles in way of jib sheets, and fittings along the
spar in way of halyards. Go through the rigging process several times
until you have it down to a "system". By this time you will know all the
parts by name and what they do.
HELM BALANCE AS IT RELATES TO RIGGING
Sailboat balance simply means
whether a boat has a "weather" or a "lee" helm. A boat with a "weather"
helm tends to head into the wind if the tiller is released, eventually
coming to a complete halt when the bow faces directly into the wind
(discounting drift). A boat with a "lee" helm tends to bear away from the
wind if the tiller is released, and ultimately causing the boat to go in
the direction the wind is blowing. When sailing on courses more or less
into the direction of the wind, balance is important. A boat with too much
lee helm could be dangerous if the tiller was released, as a capsize might
occur. A boat with too much weather helm, however, would only tend to head
into the wind too quickly. The problem with too much weather helm is that
it requires too much effort to steer the boat thereby wearing out the
helmsman, plus it cuts down on the speed of the boat. So the ideal balance
is when very little effort is required on the tiller to keep the boat on
course AND when the tiller is released, the boat will head gently into the
wind. A theoretical discussion of balance would include the relation
between the Center of Effort (CE) of the sails, and the Center of Lateral
Resistance (CLR) of the hull, which is not within the scope of this book.
All the average sailor wants to know is how to correct his boat so it has
the proper balance, and that's what will be discussed here.
The listing below gives many
options that can be tried in order to arrive at a balanced helm. Not all
items listed are practical for all boats. Obviously it is best to start
with the easy things first in the hopes that these will do the trick.
Also, it is desirable to use a combination of these changes in minute
degrees until the proper balance is achieved. Note that balance wilI
change with many factors. For example, a boat with good balance in light
winds might develop a strong weather helm in heavy winds. This would cause
the boat to turn quickly into the wind if the tiller is released, which is
not a bad quality if not pronounced. The point is that balance is a
dynamic problem that can be constantly changing depending on crew loading,
wind conditions, and with the sails used. So if you think you need to
change the balance, first consider your sailing conditions before making
drastic modifications. Remember, it is always desirable to have at least a
little weather helm under all conditions. Here are the changes that can be
made:
TO DECREASE WEATHER HELM: 1. Step
mast farther forward 2. Decrease rake of mast 3. Mount
centerboard farther aft 4. Lift centerboard up slightly when
sailing to windward 5. Move crew weight farther aft 6. Sail
boat more upright 7. Increase size of jib 8. Decrease size of
mainsail 9. Locate jib farther forward 10. Use mainsail with
less fullness of shape |
TO INCREASE WEATHER HELM: 1. Step
mast farther aft 2. Increase rake of mast 3. Mount centerboard
farther forward 4. Drop centerboard to full down position when
sailing to windward 5. Move crew weight farther forward 6.
Sail boat at greater angle of heel 7. Decrease size of jib 8.
Increase size of mainsail 9. Locate jib farther aft 10. Use
fuller shaped mainsail shape |
Chapter
10 Contents |